Steam-Baked Classic Sandwich Loaf

Combine all of the ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on low speed until a smooth, elastic dough forms and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, about 6 minutes. This step can also be done by hand, mixing the ingredients in a large bowl until they come together, then turning the dough onto a lightly oiled surface and kneading for about 6 minutes. The dough should be supple but not too sticky. Add a little more water if it seems very stiff. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl.

Place the dough in the oven, uncovered, then turn the oven on. Let it proof until doubled in size, 40 to 55 minutes.

Scrape the dough onto an oiled counter. Gently press it out into an 8-by 12-inch rectangle. Fold the rectangle lengthwise into thirds, then press back into an 8- by 12-inch rectangle again. Turn the dough 90 degrees and fold one more time. You won't be able to see them distinctly but you'll have 9 layers. Lift one of the seam sides of the dough and roll it away from you, tightly tucking as you go, so you end up with a neat roll a little smaller than a 4- by 9-inch loaf pan. This tight rolling and tucking ensures the exterior of the loaf is stretched and smooth, which gives a nice even rise and a smooth finish. Transfer to the loaf pan, seam-side down.

Return the dough to the oven, uncovered, and let proof until the dough is almost doubled and springs back when pressed gently with a fingertip, about 20 minutes.

Leave the pan in the oven as you adjust the settings. Let the loaf bake with steam for 25 minutes.

Leave the bread in the oven as you let the oven adjust to dry heat. Continue to bake until the the bread is set and the exterior is deeply golden, about 15 minutes.

Remove the loaf from the oven and turn out onto a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 2 hours before slicing and serving. The bread will keep, loosely wrapped in a plastic bag, for 2 to 3 days at room temperature. It can be sliced and frozen for longer storage.